Having showcased the world a steady stream of regal wedding wear over the years, Sabyasachi Mukherjee has sealed his spot amongst India’s most loved designers. But just when you thought he couldn’t possibly top himself, the designer went digital with his very first Instagram couture show, the Firdaus collection, a highlight of which were his distractingly beautiful coats.
“I’ve always liked long coats for Indian women,” the designer told us. “They’re typically larger framed, and not too tall, so if you’re wearing one colour from top to toe, it gives you that linear look, because it stretches your frame, and simultaneously shrinks you horizontally. And now with so many destination weddings, women don’t want to fill up their suitcases with an entire lehenga. The can-can takes a lot of space, but a coat with a pair of trousers is perfect for wedding celebrations.”
And it’s not just the big celebrations Mukherjee has thought about. “After her wedding, I think a bride could wear one of these coats with an Indian choker with a tucked-in shirt, skinny jeans or even leather pants. Add that goth quotient with ornamental shoes, like a spiked Louboutin and a beautiful exotic bag.”
The coats come in three variations and the inspiration behind each style is unique:
– The Colonial Coat: “When Christian Louboutin was in India, I took him to my school. So when I visited Paris next, he returned the favour and took me to the Museum of Colonies, full of beautiful murals depicting the trade markets [of the past]. There were pictures of elephants from Africa, references from Burma, peacocks and parrots from India. So I put them all together and called it the Colonial coat.”
– The Firdaus coat: “The inspiration behind these were paintings.”
– The Varanasi coat: “This one came from an old document that we found by one of our weavers, and it was actually meant to be one of the lehengas for someone in a royal family. We could not set the loom to make the coat in brocade, so we decied to take the pattern and then embroider it.”
For girls who’ve always dreamt of being traditional Sabyasachi brides, you don’t need to worry, the iconic pieces aren’t going anywhere. The designer said, “We don’t own the traditional Sabyasachi lehenga anymore — the public owns it.” This season Mukherjee’s collection has been inspired from all over the world – Lebonon, Isreal, Iran, Afghanistan and Kashmir. “I wanted it to be oriental occidental with a smattering of the Far East and a little of the Middle East.”
On his bridal wishlist, the designer would have loved to dress Freida Kahlo on her wedding day. Speaking of Indian stars, Deepika Padukone tops his list.
Take a look through the slideshow below to see Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s latest couture collection:
http://www.vogue.in/content/sabyasachi-is-giving-indian-wedding-wear-a-new-identity/
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